Travel to Iran. Day 4. Yazd

On the way from Kerman to Yazd.

On the way from Kerman to Yazd.

On the way from Kerman to Yazd.

On the way from Kerman to Yazd.

On the way from Kerman to Yazd.

In Yazd at the terminal, a man immediately ran up to me and began to call the names of the cities. Without waiting until he finishes playing with himself in the cities, I immediately said — Shiraz. He took my hand and shouted “VIP! Shiraz! ”, Which meant — to Shiraz VIP class. I began to explain to him in English that I would ask for a ticket and then we would talk to him. He called for heavy artillery in the form of a taxi driver who knows English. He said through him that he would take me to Shiraz at any time. I said that I would be completely satisfied with 12 nights, having decided to kill 2 birds with one stone: road + overnight. It remained only to bring down the price, because for the night he agreed for 30 thousand fogs. I’m at the cashier, he — for me. Not a step behind. The ticket office said that there are tickets for 14 thousand normal class. VIP, seeing that I agree to 14, threw off the price from 30 to 25 and took the interpreter “translate to him, discount! A discount!». I pretended to think. In the end, agreed. Opponent already sweated. On the way to ITS checkout (and in Iran there are a lot of car companies at the terminals and each has its own checkout), he asked where I was from?

-Russia.

And then he said that in this case — even cheaper. 20 thousand. Totally 1.5 times cheaper and 2 problems solved.
Having solved the issue of transport and overnight, he boldly went to the city center. He decided to start his inspection with the Amir Chakmak complex, the main part of which is the three-storey Hossein, a ritual building designed for prayer and grief for Imam Hussein.

Flower beds in the city of Yazd

The main attraction of the city of Yazd. Amir Chakmak.

To the right of the complex is a building with five badgirs. Previously, it was a huge reservoir in which water was stored for the city. There, a 12-year-old boy approached me, began to talk in English about the sights of Yazd, offered to take a picture of me on my camera, well, he said that he could walk around the city with me. I decided that the company is better than one. It turned out that this boy is not 12, but 15 years old. I asked him — where you can taste the faluda. He took me to the shop where they made and sold this delicacy. I asked for 2 servings — for me and my new friend. My companion refused, and I tried. Quite unusual and tasty, but very sweet. This is the first ice cream that was invented. Thin crispy cobweb pasta made from cornmeal in a cold sweet syrup. Watered with different additives yet.

Faluda

After some time, it turned out that this boy was waiting for 1 dollar from me. He paid him for his company and went to the Temple of Fire. Zoroastrian temple Atashkad.

On one of the streets of Yazd

On another street Yazd

Atashkad

There were 2 people dressed not exactly like Iranians. He asked — where are they from? It turned out the Pakistanis. I ask — from Zahedan? YES! — they answered with surprise. We were surprised how I guessed the city from which they came. Zahedan is the only city I knew on the border of Iran and Pakistan. Invited to visit. Remembering the Taliban, politely refused.

Guests from sunny Zahedan. The one in the middle is from Samara

Fire has been burning in this temple since 474 AD. Than not eternal fire.

Fire worshiped by Zaraostrians

At the shrine of Zaraostrians

«Thus spoke Zarathustra» (c)

Zarathustra

After visiting a religious facility, I went to the water museum. The exhibition is dedicated to the extraction of water in the difficult conditions of ancient Persia, the preservation of this very cool water, as well as various water supply systems.

After the museum I went for a walk in the old bazaar town. Recommended to find and visit the old prison of Alexander (built by Alexander of Macedon). While I was looking for her, I was walking through the old town, asking passers-by for a road.

Old Yazd. Something like Khiva.

Streets of Old Yazd and Badgirs

The domes of the old Yazd

Narrow streets of Yazd

Doors in Iran. Beaters on the right and on the left door are different. so that the residents might be able to determine by knocking on the door. If to the left, then guests came to the woman. If the right — then a man. This was done so that the woman did not come out to meet the guests of the man in an inappropriate way.

Doors with different beaters

Another Persian stopped his motorcycle and offered to sit down — take Alexander to prison. And we rushed on a motorcycle through the narrow streets of the old Yazd, circling passers-by.

Narrow street Yazd

Prison turned into a shop, the entrance to which, moreover, is also paid.

In the shops of those sold crafts and souvenirs. The photo shows the famous copper coinage.

Zulfiya, Zuhra, Fatima, Gulchatay

Another highlight of the city remained unvisited. Where I went. But first you had to get out of the maze of the old city. I see a bus with tourists pulls away. These were schoolchildren (or students). One of them knew the English and through him the driver said that I should sit down and he would take me where I needed. The guys were very happy, gave me a place, then sang, clapped their hands. We sang an Iranian song and asked me to sing a Russian song. Sang them «w.w.w.leningrad» group «Leningrad».

In the bus with Iranian students. Or by students.

The one with the glasses knows English, and the most chic they have is the one in the «pink blouse»

Under these badgirs a huge reservoir that used to supply the entire city with water

Persians, I and falude

I exchanged currency and received a banknote of 1 million rials. I am a Persian millionaire.

Banknote in a million rials

I am a Persian millionaire

The bill depicts Persepolis. Tomorrow I’ll be there.

Walking through the evening city, went to the shops and shops. Gradually understanding what it is — Persian luxury.

In the china shop

In the china shop

Young seller

Silverware

Persian rugs

Evening dresses

Wall decoration in the water museum

In the evening streets went to the same garden.

Evening streets of Yazd

Evening streets of Yazd

And here it is — the most interesting garden in Yazd. «Bagh e Dolat Abad.» This former residence of Karim Hana Zanda was built in 1750 and is a palace surrounded by gardens. The building itself is notable for having the highest badgir in Iran.

Actually. The building with the highest badgir in Iran

Inside you can close the doors and windows to admire the amazing windows of multicolored mosaic. If you can — it means you need! Admired, then went for a walk in the garden. Very relaxing. And residents of the city come there not only to take a walk, but also to sit in a restaurant that is also organized there. At one of the tables on the ottomans, a company of women and children was noisy celebrating the birthday of one of them. Noisy, despite the fact that without vodka (which seems incomprehensible to a Russian person).

On the couch in the garden

It is time to go to the terminal, from where it was necessary to go to Shiraz.

Terminal in Yazd

Steel horse. He is a hotel on wheels (for me). VIP class in Iran.

When boarding a bus to Shiraz, they handed over their luggage. The driver asked each passenger a name and wrote it on a piece of scotch tape, which he then glued to the baggage. I did not ask anything, but immediately wrote something and stuck it. Probably gave some nickname. In Shiraz, I saved this piece of paper and, on occasion, gave an English-speaking Persian to read. It was written «bald.»

Internet in Iran is slow. Some sites are blocked (Facebook, YouTube), people actively use a proxy.
Being in the desert, I noticed that the Big Dipper constellation here is very low above the horizon and is located almost vertically.

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Travel to Iran. Day 3. Kerman


We met with Iraj. With him, we agreed to meet even when I was in Russia. He earns a guide on the outskirts of Kerman. Came to his home. He introduced me to his family, we had breakfast and went to the sights.

How are children transported in Iran

That day was a great holiday, so the Ryan fortress was closed. But Iraj called the museum curator and after a while he arrived. My companion told him that I was from Russia and came to see Ryan on purpose. It is by far the largest fortress in the world. There is one more (the fortress of Bam — it is more), but at the moment is under restoration after the 2003 earthquake.

Mountain landscape on the road from Kerman to Ryan

Mountain landscape on the road from Kerman to Ryan

Mountain landscape and signpost on the road from Kerman to Ryan

Highway and mountain landscape on the road from Kerman to Ryan

Mountain landscape and desert along the road from Kerman to Ryan

The fortress was opened for me and another family of Iranians from Tehran came with us.
Iraj enthusiastically talked about the rooms that were in this fortress. For what purpose were the premises, where the delegations were received, where the children were trained, where the sports sections were.

General view of the buildings and walls of the fortress

Outside the fortress wall

Fortification walls and towers outside

Captain Kozlov against the background of the fortress walls Ryan

The premises inside the fortress

The restored part of the fortress inside

The ruins of buildings inside the fortress

Against the background of the internal buildings of the fortress Ryan

Tower of the fortress from the inside

Fortress wall inside

Ryan Fortress Buildings

General view of the fortress Ryan on the background of mountains

Some of the buildings of the fortress are in a destroyed state, some of them have been restored. It can be seen that rain and wind destroy the walls and roofs of the dwelling premises of the fortress. Because they are made of clay and straw. According to Iraj, some premises were recently finished and some 500 years ago. The fortress is really big and you can climb there for a very long time.

After walking for about an hour through the fortress, we went to the garden of Shahzde in the vicinity of the city of Makhan.

On the road from Ryan to Makhan

On the road from Ryan to Makhan

On the road from Ryan to Makhan

On the way to the garden, Iraj told me the story of the creation of this garden. Once upon a time, a long time ago, a Persian sheikh, who ruled in this area, had a son who did not want to do anything, but only to live for his own pleasure. And when the son became an adult and it was time to think about the transfer of power to him, the sheikh decided to build a garden for his son, which is not found anywhere in the district in all of Persia. Called architects from Europe, who erected such beauty. However, the father did not live to see the moment when everything was ready. He died about a month before the end of the work. And the son inherited the title and became a good, serious ruler for his people.

In the garden of Mahan

It is one of the most beautiful gardens of Iran and the entire Middle East. But he, too, was closed. However, I managed to get inside. The keepers saw my camera and asked — where did I come from? He said that from Russia. They were very happy and let me in. True, with the condition that I did not go far.

Garden gate from the inside

When I left, there was already a group of Iranians at the door who were not allowed. Because the day off. Around the garden Mahad and here, and there were families of Iranians, had picnics. More than once I was convinced of how this kind of holiday is popular in Iran. Then we went to the mausoleum in Mahad. Iraj explained that for Iranians admission is free, and for foreigners — paid. He told me to pretend to be Iranian and go free.

  • but I do not look like an Iranian?
  • you look like an Iranian from Tehran or Tabriz. Say you’re from Tehran. And even better — from Tabriz. Say only one word — Tabriz. Say no more. Neither English nor Farsi.
    As a result, on the occasion of the holiday all allowed for free.

Inside the Mahan Mausoleum

Crypt in Mahan mausoleum

Garden in Makhan Mausoleum

View of the Makhan mausoleum

After that we went to the city Shehdad. His mother-in-law lives there, and Iraj himself comes from this city. We drove through the mountains. Very reminded Tajikistan. This city is very hot, because It is located 50 km from the Callut desert — the hottest place on Earth.

Highway and mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Motorcyclists hold hands on the highway on the road to Shahdad city

In his house, the mother-in-law ate fresh dates from palm trees, drank tea, he showed me his school, an underground giant reservoir that used to supply the entire city with water, and now it’s empty. Then we went to Callut.

In the garden of date palms

Date palm

For the first time in my life I ate dates right from the palm

Along the way, Iraj showed underground ropes — a system of canals that supply the surrounding villages with water. They have a lot of exits to the outside, so that air flows there for the workers.

Inside the underground ropes

After that, we went to another ancient fortress, but in which people lived 25 years ago.

General view of the fortress from one of the towers

Inside the fortress

Residential, recently inhabited premises of the fortress

Residential, recently inhabited premises of the fortress

General view of the village among date palms.

And finally, actually, Callut! As it approached, the air grew hotter, all you had to do was stick your hand out of the car — it was blown by a hot stream of air. In the desert is absolutely Martian landscape. We took in advance dinner food and plenty of water. 2 thermos + 2 liters + another canister. Why so much — I realized on the spot. Strong heat + wind dehydrate the body instantly. Every 5-10 minutes I drank a glass of cold water. Although that day was not the hottest. +50. The record, which was set in this desert +71 degrees. The high mountain desert is located at an altitude of 3500 m above sea level. According to some expedition scientists, even bacteria do not live in this desert because of the harsh climate. If, for example, you leave an apple in it, then it does not rot, but simply dries.

Martian desert landscape Callut

Martian desert landscape Callut

Martian desert landscape Callut

Martian desert landscape Callut

Beginning of sunset in the Callut desert

In the Kallut desert at sunset

In the Kallut desert at sunset

In the Kallut desert at sunset

In the Kallut desert at sunset

Martian desert landscape Callut

Martian desert landscape Callut

Against the backdrop of the setting sun in the desert Callut

At sunset in the Kallut desert

At sunset in the Kallut desert

Somewhere on the red planet

Somewhere on the red planet

Somewhere on the red planet

Somewhere on the red planet

That white dot is me

So here you are, Mars

Towards sunset, they ate and sat down to watch the sunset.

Peugeot rover and its pilot Iraj before dinner at sunset.

Peugeot rover and its pilot Iraj before dinner at sunset.

We were joined by a guy + girl from Germany. Then another guy from Spain, then another guy from Italy. Began to get acquainted. Iraj said I am from Russia and Putin’s friend. Europeans theatrically frightened. I told them that I was not Putin’s closest friend so that they wouldn’t be too scared. And, pointing to the Germans, Iraj said that they are Hitler’s friends! What greatly embarrassed the representatives of the Aryan race. «No, no! No Hitler! Angela Merkel!» — our German acquaintances began to object. But Iraj was adamant: «No! Hitler!» As a result, we talked with the whole friendly company for about an hour.

Friends of Hitler, a friend of Putin and a friend of Franco

The Italian has not yet approached, and the Russian — for the camera

And it seemed that there were no borders in the world, no sanctions, no wars, no politics, no superiority of one nation over another. We sat there — six ordinary guys: two Germans, an Italian, a Spaniard, a Persian and a Russian, and sang Kalinka-Malinka.

Callut Desert at Sunset

The sun sets in the Callut desert

The sun sets in the Callut desert

The sun sets in the Callut desert

Callut Desert at Sunset

If not for the lack of a spacesuit — would feel like on Mars

As a result, after sunset, we went with Iraj to Kerman. Already cold air was blowing from the mountains. Beauty! During the day we drove 500 km. And all day I spoke with him in English. My brain rested. No, of course, he absorbed information, defragmented, zip-oval. But I was relieved of my duties to solve charades in Farsi and play pantomime with the Persians.
So I met that day in the desert, driving along it in a bus from Mashhad to Kerman — watched the sunrise, and spent the day in the desert too, watching the sunset.
At a desert picnic, they ate delicious chicken stew, which actually turned out to be some kind of fish from the Persian Gulf.
In the evening after dinner, as promised, he showed tourist blogs with his photos and stories about his services to Iraj. Iraj was very surprised at how popular he was on the Internet. He was even inspired and began to generate ideas for expanding his business. I decided to carry tourists not only around Kerman, but throughout Iran. + Started to maintain a customer base. I was number one in it. I suggested that he collect links to travel blogs and post on his website as reviews. As promised to him — I cite his contacts in the blog, as advertising. Well, maybe some of my readers will find the information about Iraj and his services useful. I was pleased. Tour Guide Iraj Iraj Rahmany. Tel: 09133417865; e-mail: iraj_ry@yahoo.com.

Ответ был верным – проблемы Шираза полицейских Йезда не волнуют. Отдали паспорт и пожелали всего хорошего. С афганцем разбирались отдельно, но в итоге через 15 минут тоже отпустили. В Йезде у таксиста я узнал, что на этом посту ловят оружие, наркотики и нелегалов (в основном афганцев и пакистанцев). Такой же пост мы проезжали накануне с Ираджем в Кермане, но нас там не проверяли.

Putting to bed, I asked Iraj how men in Iran are supposed to sleep? In clothes or not? Men in Iran sleep in their pajamas. Wore trousers and a T-shirt and went to bed on Persian rugs. The house of Iraj is very beautiful. Like a Persian palace. I told this in the morning to his wife in Farsi while she was preparing breakfast for me. My printouts from the phrasebook came in handy.
In the morning, breakfast was served and Iraj took me to the bus station, where, without incident, he bought a ticket for the nearest bus to the city of Yazd. It was 1.5 hours before him. Walked around the terminal. Suddenly a policeman approached me and asked me where I came from in a mixture of English and Farsi. I decided that it was a document check, but it turned out to be a common curiosity and a desire to communicate with a foreigner. When he learned that I was from Russia — he began animatedly repeating «Frend! Frend!», Reinforcing words with linked little fingers in his hands. 5 minutes talked and he went to his post. It turned out he ran a decent distance. I returned to the waiting room. There the guy sat down with me. In English, he knew only a few words, but really wanted to talk. How could — talked about 20 minutes. He was interested in — why did I come to Iran and is it good to be a free traveler? This time the bus was not a VIP, but an ordinary one. 280 r for 500 km. At the entrance to Yazd there was a check point. All passengers were given their belongings and opened all the curtains on the bus. The police entered with machine guns. They asked for documents from me and from one Afghan. Let’s go deal with us in the booth. They checked my visa, asked where I would stay in Yazd. To which I replied that I was going to Shiraz in the evening.


The answer was true — the problems of Shiraz police Yazd do not care. Gave a passport and wished all the best. They dealt with the Afghani separately, but in the end, after 15 minutes, they also released him. In Yazd, I learned from a taxi driver that they were taking weapons, drugs, and illegal immigrants (mostly Afghans and Pakistanis) in this post. We passed the same post the day before with Iraj in Kerman, but we were not checked there.

Actually, Iraj

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Travel to Iran. Day 2. Mashhad

The main attraction of Mashhad is the mausoleum of Imam Reza. Every Muslim in life must make a hajj to Mecca. This is the first Muslim shrine. In second place is the tomb of Prophet Mohammed in Medina (in Iraq, but now it is destroyed, as the engineer from Baghdad told me), and then comes the tomb of Imam Reza. There are always a lot of pilgrim tourists in the city. From the station, they go straight to the mausoleum with their suitcases.

Pilgrims arriving in Mashhad

In the building of the railway station of the city of Mashhad

I went on foot to walk around the city. On the way, I saw such sports equipment on the streets. Then I saw these in almost every city.

Sports simulators on the streets of the city of Mashhad in Iran.

Sports simulators on the streets of the city of Mashhad in Iran.

Sports simulators on the streets of the city of Mashhad in Iran.


As I approached him, the flow of my companions increased.

The stream of pilgrims in the mausoleum of Imam Reza

Before the mausoleum, people relax — they are lying on lawns, having picnics.

Before entering the mausoleum of Imam Reza

People rest on the lawns in front of Imam Reza’s mausoleum.

Shiite flags in front of the mausoleum

At the entrance, things passed into the storage chamber and went inside. It turned out that this is a complex. Walking on it, followed by streams of people. Where most — there I am. You can not take a picture inside, because things are surrendered to the camera, but people are taking pictures on their phones. Inside the complex is more beautiful than the outside. And having gone down to one of the halls, I was simply stunned by such beauty. Everywhere prayer rooms. I decided also to pofot on the phone. Quality is not ice, but better than nothing.

The prayer room in the mausoleum of Imam Reza

The ceiling in one of the rooms in the mausoleum of Imam Reza

Muslims who can not to Mecca — I recommend to Mashhad. The rest — I recommend to come to see this beauty. Then I walked just by the call of my heart.

One of the areas of the mausoleum, covered with Persian carpets

One of the mausoleum squares, covered with Persian rugs, and two women on them

This is not a complex, this is a whole city! With their own minibuses. Seeing the most beautiful golden gate — he went to them.

The main entrance to the mausoleum of Imam Reza


By the way the Muslims touched the doors, walls and kissed them, I realized that there was something important on the right path and ahead.

Men near the wall of the room in which the body of Imam Reza rests

Passing with the flow of 3-4 rooms, I saw a light version of the hajj. The flow intensified, the crush began. In the next room I was just drawn into the stream. There was the grave of Imam Reza. What was going on here !!! Adults carry children on their shoulders, they yell, some adults themselves also cry when they see the grave, shout, hang themselves on it, throw their things upstairs.

Pilgrims near the entrance to the room with the body of Imam Reza

Pilgrims near the coffin with the body of Imam Reza

Behind a glass partition of the woman in the same stream. Burst out of the stream, stood in the corner to watch. Everyone strives to reach her, and those that have reached, do not let go. Particularly fanatical hang on it, cry, scream. Then I understood what religious fanaticism is. And it became clear how in each hajj in Mecca several dozens of people were killed in crush. Here, though the scale is not the same, but Muslims from all over the world come here too. Some, shouting, fall into a trance, as in the Ivolginsky Datsan near Ulan-Ude, the monks, reading the mantra, fall into a trance. Impressive! True, I had to plunge into this stream to get out. There was no way back — it was unreal to go against the stream. Gathering his courage, he stepped into this human maelstrom. The stream carried me to the shrine. I decided that, not understanding the significance of this action, I didn’t need it, and, having made an effort, I went into another room, from where I had already gone outside.

The entrance to one of the buildings of the Imam Rez mausoleum

On one of the squares of the mausoleum

The mausoleum is open around the clock, it is decorated with lighting. At night, probably very beautiful. In some places there are points with water where you can quench your thirst. Above the cranes inscription on Farsi. Apparently, «Drink water in memory of all Muslims who died for the faith.» Such an inscription in English was at the faucet in the Golestan Palace in Tehran.

The same points with drinking water are throughout the city and help out a lot. Somewhere there are no mugs, somewhere there is.

Sources of drinking water in the cities of Iran

The main souvenir from Mashhad is saffron. But he is here for the price of heroin per gram. About 300 rubles per gram. In my opinion, this is the most expensive seasoning in the world, because it is harvested by hand and 3 pistils from a flower.

Views of the city of Mashhad

The central street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Car traffic on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Residents of the city on the main street

Buying a bus ticket to Kerman was also a little adventure. From one box office sent to another. Nobody spoke English. He spoke them in Farsi «bilit Kerman». Until I ended up on the 2nd floor in some distant office, where I spent the next half hour. Nobody knew English there either. Communicated first with gestures, then through google. Reached a ticket. They asked for a name. He said. On the name — gave a passport. Opened, began to laugh. Apparently, above the last name. In the end, they called me Denis Rus. So they wrote out a ticket to this name. To the bus was about 5 hours. Especially you do not clear up, especially since the terminal (as bus stations are called in Iran) is located on the outskirts of the city. I decided to go to the park. Found a lonely sitting Persian, asked what you can get to the point on the map, which I pointed out to him. When he found out that I was from Russia, I was very animated. He remembered his entire vocabulary of English, said that Russia and Iran are the most loyal friends against America. The guy was an army officer. As a result, he took me to the parking lot, explaining where to go, what is the name of the stop. Saying goodbye, he firmly shook his hand and strove to embrace. Seeing my embarrassment, he said that in Iran, good friends say goodbye, they touch cheeks. So did. But lucky with a taxi. I decided to go to Savary. Stopped the first available to ask. The driver, having learned that I had transplanted a guy from the front seat back from Russia, invited me to sit in front, drove to the park gate, refused to take money, invited me to eat shish kebab at home. The first thing I did in the park was to climb Sangi Mountain — to admire the views of Mashhad. Very reminded of the city of Osh and the mountain Suleiman Tooo.

Panoramic views of the city of Mashhad from a height:

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

Mount Sangi and view of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

Persian girls on top of Mount Sangi

One of the favorite types of recreation in Iran — picnics in the parks. And maybe this is the only thing that is allowed.

Residents of the city of Mashhad rest in the park

Еще спортивные тренажеры:

Both adults and children are welcome to exercise machines.

Children are engaged in simulators in the park of the city of Mashhad

The man is engaged in simulators in the park of the city of Mashhad

All public toilets in Iran are free. From Tehran airport you can make free calls around the city. At all stations, airports and terminals — free sockets in the waiting rooms.

In the waiting room of the bus station of the city of Mashhad. Portraits of warriors who died in the war with Iraq.

VIP bus in Iran. For the price is not much different from the usual, but noticeably nicer

In the bus to Kerman distributed food to passengers. 2 biscuit bars and juice. And then I remembered that I had not eaten all day. In fact, I haven’t eaten since lunch at the fire station, i.e. already more than a day. During one of the night stops on the street, a rather colorful uncle (Karabas-barabas) approached me and tried hard to speak Farsi.

Karabas — Barabas

Seeing my misunderstanding and perseverance of the interlocutor, one of our bus passengers volunteered to be a translator. He knew a little English. It turned out the translator is an Afghan. At the next stop in the morning talk to him a little.

Night stop on the way to Kerman

Night stop on the way to Kerman

Night stop on the way to Kerman

The same guy is an Afghan

Sunrise met in the desert. The sun rose in 2 minutes. Handsomely.

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

A little later, another passenger of ours got me. He knew little English language, but really wanted to talk. He studies at the faculty of oil, wants to go to Canada. He asked me how I feel about the clothes of the Iranians and how I like their women. He likes Russian women. And when I said that women wear open clothes, he said he wants to go to Russia.

On the way to Kerman

On the way to Kerman

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

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Travel to Iran. Day 1. Road to Iran. Iran. Tehran

Samara.
Departure to
Tehran was from Moscow with a transfer in Kiev. Moscow tickets for the train
It was not, therefore, it was decided to go to Moscow by bus. Bus
was supposed to arrive at the Kazan station of Moscow at 11 o’clock in the day
departure. True, already from Samara, he left with an hour late. Next were
frequent parking at the request of workers (eat, smoke, go to
restroom). As a result, the delay was not only not reduced, but also
increased. As a result, at 11 o’clock we were just still in Ryazan. Where and
We stopped at the next parking for 40 minutes. The driver said that on
Kazan station, we will arrive in 3 hours. In the course of driving in Moscow
he will not be able to land the first metro station. This means that before
Paveletskaya I get to half past three, and at the airport — all the hours
to 5. Whereas at 5 o’clock I already have a flight to Kiev. Continue
movement with this team of hungry smokers who always want to go to the toilet —
not an option. My soul could not stand it, I took my backpack and waved my hand.
He waved his hand and stopped the cargo Gazelle. Having driven 1-2 km, I saw a turn
on the house-museum of Sergei Yesenin. It turns out we were in the homeland of the great
Russian poet. I knew that he was from Ryazan province, but that the village
Konstantinovo — here it is — did not know. I found it symbolic, because
immediately remembered «Persian motifs» Yesenin. Later they were useful to me. On a gazelle I drove to the town Bronnitsy .
It is 30 km to Moscow. There he took a bus ticket to Moscow (metro
Vyhino). I looked at the bus station queue for boarding the bus.
Culture-multur! When the bus approached — the people rushed in a heap. But not,
everything is in order — the same trash, like me. Even worse, because swearing
on top of each other when landing. In Vykhino I managed to take the subway
then similarly on the ring line and at 13:55 was already on Paveletsky
train station. Express to Domodedovo leaves at 14:00. Having bought a ticket
rushed with a few more of these same poor fellows in the direction of the 7th path.
They jumped just before the departure. As a result, the airport had
when I was already checking in for my flight. But that’s all
began. The trouble came from not having waited ( «from the lair of the serpent, from the city Kiev « (c). They did not expect from Kiev, and she came from there). They registered for the flight, but they do not give away the landing Kiev-Tehran.

New internal rules
Airlines «International lines of Ukraine.» For them, Iran needs
present a visa. Yes, and passengers departing to other countries, checked
employee, checked with her book and … missed. Me the same
asked to present an official invitation to the country, or a visa.
I told them that I will receive a visa upon arrival at the airport, but for now I have
there is only a promotional code issued by the consulate. My listing of their code
not satisfied, they gathered the whole meeting, began to call in Kiev — in
head office of the company. In the end, after half an hour missed with
an apology.

The aircraft of the Ukrainian International Airline at Domodedovo Airport

Letak (ukr.)

On an international plane
Ukrainian Airlines during the flight to Kiev food and drinks on board
SELLED. Even water. The first time I saw this. Because fly to Tehran
the same airline had to, then decided to have a snack. Next to me
sat passenger — Odessa. We talked with him only when landing and
it turned out that he was from Samara — from the 15th mkrn. In Samara, he was not
already 25 years old. In the international terminal of Kiev, walking next to me 2
women and spoke Ukrainian. But the word «plane» in this context
reanulo rumor. With a clear Maskal accent, he told them “shanovni panove,
if you crush with a non-inflatable mow, grind, Budlask to the end. Neither
aircraft. Letak! ” Laughed.

At the Borispol airport in Kiev. Welcome or unauthorized access is prohibited

At the Kiev airport
invitations to land for the republics of the former USSR in Ukrainian and
Russian (Tbilisi, Baku, Yerevan, Almaty, Chisinau, even Lviv!).
And only Vilnius — in Ukrainian and English. Apparently fear
outrages of sprats «Niiinaaaaad raaazgavaarivat paaaruskski with us!»
In Domodedovo, in English and in the language of the host country.
In fairness, I note that the plane to Tehran fully
fed hot. Apparently, this is only on the Kiev-Moscow route.
famine, in retaliation))
Flew to Tehran. Flew over the Donbas, over the Black Sea, over the Caucasus.

Tehran.
Upon arrival in Tehran, the women began wearing shawls while still on the plane. One girl did not dress and got on the bus to the terminal without a headscarf. Passengers looked at her with reproach, showed a finger. In the end, she threw it, but did not tie. She was told to tie a scarf. It is strange that in the plane they sat in the form in which Allah forbids them. Haram! Although, on a plane to Allah, something is even closer.

Schedule of flights at the airport Imam Khomeini. Tehran

Arrived at 2 am.
I got a visa at the airport. Strange, but a visa was issued for a period of 15 days, and
not for 8. At the airport, they exchanged the first $ 50 for Iranian rials. WITH
money there perfect zamorochki. In addition to the standard for any country
monetary units (rubles and pennies, dollars and cents), Iran has
third unit of measurement. Fogs These are 10 rials. Moreover, it is
informal unit, but the calculations are usually in the mists. Ie, on
a banknote of 100 thousand rials, we close one zero and get 10 thousand
fogs. The first 2 days in my head was porridge with prices and calculations, until
determined for himself a constant that a thousand fogs are 20 rubles. BUT
initially transferred to dollars, from dollars to rubles, to ask the price.
Transport. In Iran, from public transportation are common
buses, savars and darmases. The bus is understandable. Savary is
collective taxi. Just stop the car (any, even without
signs of belonging to a taxi) and ask — Savary or not? If a
Yes, it travels around the city and carries its passengers, who can
sit down on the go. It costs more than a bus, but is cheaper than darmas.
Darmas is a classic taxi. You sit down alone, rent the whole car and
no one else gets hooked up, only you are driven. From airport to
the city rode on darmas for the price of savary. The distance there is 60 km. Cost
at the rate of $ 20 after the auction. But this was my first test. how
bargain without knowing Farsi? Showed the taxi driver how much I have in
the availability of money and he counted out how much he needed for the passage. I, in my
turn, diminished from this amount a little more. He threw, I — diminished.
So they shifted the banknotes, as in a card deck. Until we
noticed a guy who speaks english. It was a salvation. I explained
to him that he is ready to pay no more than a certain amount and he is already on
Farsi interpreted the taxi driver. In the end, I went with him to the Azadi tower,
which is a symbol of Tehran. Start acquaintance with the country decided
It was from the capital. A familiarity with the capital — with the symbol of the city. Arrived
about there at about half past four o’clock.


Azadi Tower — a symbol of the city of Tehran

Then I went for a walk through the night Tehran. The annoying taxi drivers offered to take me wherever needed, but I decided to walk around the city at night, enjoy the silence, the warm Persian night, the moon, that “a little yellower and from the other side” (c) Yesenin. He discarded taxi drivers with the magic word «majoni». What in Farsi means free. I learned the most popular and necessary phrases in Farsi on an airplane and + with me I had printouts from a phrase book. One of the taxi drivers began to bargain with me in English. As a result, 12 thousand fogs converged on 5. For this amount, I drove to another main square of the city — Imam Khomeini Square. There is a lot of things in Iran called Khomeini. It’s like Lenin in the USSR at one time. In Azerbaijan today Heydar Aliyev will also be honored. From Khomeni Square I went for a walk on the pedestrian part of the city, to watch the big city wake up.

Imam Khomeini Square in Tehran at night

Tehran is a city of contrasts. In the very center of the city on the square of Imam Khomeini there is such a house.

House in Imam Khomeini Square at night

Для себя решил, что часов в 6 утра надо будет выдвигаться в сторону ЖД-вокзала, т.к. решил, что в Мешхад  поеду поездом. Чтобы попробовать все виды транспорта в Иране. А билеты  на ночные поезда в Иране раскупают, как горячие пирожки, поэтому надо  заранее озаботиться. Пока же гулял по одной из улиц пешеходной зоны  столицы Ирана. Время было еще ночное, поэтому народ еще мирно спал:

Спящие под открытым небом жители Тегерана

For myself, I decided that at 6 am I would have to move towards the railway station, because I decided that I would go to Mashhad by train. To try all modes of transport in Iran. And the tickets for night trains in Iran are being bought up like hot cakes, so you have to attend to it in advance. In the meantime, walking along one of the streets in the pedestrian zone of the capital of Iran. The time was still night, so the people were still sleeping peacefully:

Clean, shaven, well-dressed. Probably far from home.

I walked through the empty pedestrian streets of Tehran:

Mosque on one of the streets of Tehran

Tehran deserted street at night

I decided to buy a drink in the opening stall. As it turned out, the salesman (young guy) teaches Russian and I saw a potential interlocutor with whom I could practice Russian. We talked with him, bought lemonade from him, showed postcards with the image of Samara, presented one of them as a souvenir, and went on — towards Azadi Square, where I saw beautifully lit public transport stops. But I did not have time to take a picture because while walking before them — the sun was already beginning to rise and the artificial lighting was turned off. I went down to the subway, where the vendors were asked the direction to the railway station. Under the ground was a small trading town with many exits. Following in the direction indicated to me, I got to the metro station, where, in turn, the metro workers indicated to me a girl at the ticket office who knew English. She told me that I need to get to Rohahan station. Taking the ticket and going to the scheme, I realized that I need to go to the 3rd line and there will be the station I need. So did.

In the Tehran metro

В Иране для женщин не только отдельные вагоны в метро, но и сидения для ожидания поезда:

In Iran, for women, not only separate cars in the subway, but also seats for waiting the train: Places for women only

В итоге вышел аккурат к вокзалу. Не зная фарси в Иране тяжело. Сим-карту  купил – молодец! Билет на поезд смог купить – просто умница! Мало того,  там еще и свои правила. Например, в автобусах женщины заходят строго в  заднюю дверь, мужчины – строго в переднюю и внутри автобуса задняя  половина – для женщин, передняя – для мужчин и в салоне четкое  разделение. В метро первый и последний вагоны  — строго для женщин,  остальные – смешанные, но, как правило, в остальных исключительно  мужчины. Так же и на платформе, ожидая поезд, места для сидения only for  women. Также свои правила в Иране и при покупке билетов.

Railway station building in Tehran

As a result, went right to the station. Not knowing Farsi in Iran is hard. I bought a sim card — well done! Train ticket could buy — just clever! Moreover, there are also their own rules. For example, in buses, women enter strictly in the back door, men — strictly in the front and inside the bus, the back half is for women, the front — for men and in the cabin is a clear separation. In the metro, the first and last cars are strictly for women, the rest are mixed, but, as a rule, the rest are exclusively men. Likewise, on the platform, waiting for the train, seats only for women. Also its rules in Iran and when buying tickets.

Как происходит покупка ЖД-билетов – я так и не понял, а с междугородними  автобусами разобрался, хоть и не сразу. Покупая ЖД-билет,  девушка-кассир, разглядев во мне иностранца, взяла у меня паспорт и  сказала, что все сделает сама и потом позовет меня. Мне же оставалось  сидеть, ждать и наблюдать за развернувшимся безумием. Кассы огорожены  забором, в проеме которого охранник. Пускает он по каким-то своим  правилам. И счастливчик, попавший к кассе, покупает либо пачку билетов,  либо один. Остальные же почему-то мечутся, кричат и трясут какими-то  бумажками. Мне все это напомнило торговлю на бирже.

Waiting for the fence when buying tickets to Tehran station

How does the purchase of railway tickets occur? I did not understand, and I figured out intercity buses, though not immediately. When buying a railway ticket, the cashier girl, having seen the foreigner in me, took my passport and said that she would do everything herself and then call me. I just had to sit, wait and watch the madness unfolded. The ticket office is fenced, in the opening of which is a guard. He lets out according to his own rules. And the lucky one who gets to the box office buys either a pack of tickets or one. The rest for some reason, rushing, screaming and shaking some pieces of paper. All this reminded me of trading on the stock exchange.

After waiting a little over an hour, I became nervous. And I wanted my passport back, and I didn’t want to spend time in the waiting room, because there was so much interesting and exciting ahead. And here one local guy addressed me. His name was Khalil. He was very happy to hear that I was from Russia. He was already on the other side of the fence. Among the lucky ones. He asked where I need a ticket. I told him that that girl promised me to arrange everything. As a result, I climbed over that fence and found myself in happy territory near the cash registers. Khalil asked her if the ticket was ready.

And they gave me a ticket and a passport. Explained where and what is written on the ticket. Because everything was written in Farsi. Even numbers (date and time of departure).

Train ticket in iran

Me and Khalil against the background of the Koran at the station in Tehran

With the date, by the way, a separate issue in Iran. Now they have 1394y in the yard. When I was there, they had the month of May in the yard. Approximately 17th number. We also, remember, was the 9th of August 2015. Brain rupture! Khalil knows English well, but, like many Iranians, there is no place to practice it. Therefore, they are very happy to those rare tourists who visit their country. He asked where I was going now in Tehran and in general what my plans are in Iran. When he learned that I was going to the TV tower, I began to ring up my acquaintances to ask me how I could get to her more conveniently and cheaper, I also asked passers-by on the street. As a result, we determined what was needed at the stop, which was on the other side of the street. He took my hand and led me across the road. It was unusual. But in Iran there is nothing wrong with people of the same sex holding hands. This is a manifestation of friendship. But to touch the opposite sex can not. A man and a woman, who hold hands in a public place, are even awaiting arrest and administrative punishment. Crossing the road, there was another reason why he took my hand. There are no traffic rules in Tehran. Absent, starting from the word «absolutely.» Therefore, where he managed — there he ran over. Drivers do not even think to slow down, and pedestrians wander where they want. Motorcyclists ride on sidewalks — it is in the order of things. Especially in Tehran, where the traffic is very big! (The population of the city with the suburbs — about 15 million). As a result, Khalil put me on the bus, told the driver to drop me off at the designated stop. + we have changed phone numbers with it. He said that if I have difficulties in Iran, I can call him and he will help me. And I must pay tribute — he called me every day and found out where I was and if everything was fine with me. After the bus, I moved to Savary, because I forgot the name of the next bus, which I had to transfer to. Two girls and a guy were already sitting in the savary. Here, too, has its own rules. First, a woman should sit in the back seat (so as not to sit in an empty car next to the driver). Then as far as filling the cabin, if a man sits down, he should sit in the front seat so that the woman sits alone in the back seat. If a man sits next, then the one who sits in the front seat should move back and the girl should go forward. That she did not sit in close proximity with a man in the back, and would sit alone in the front. And men sit back together. In general, the whole puzzle. The exception is when a woman is with her husband or one of her relatives (father, brother). But some young couples use a taxi to be together without the eyes of others and just sit together in the back seat, hold hands or even embrace. I had no choice — I sat back, where the girl and the guy were already sitting. After a while they all came out, the girl wished me a good day in English. And I was left with a taxi driver together. He suggested that I transfer to the front seat. I did not want to change with a backpack and therefore I stayed behind. They arrived at the tower.

Tehran City TV Tower

На башне познакомился с ребятами из Иракского Курдистана. Модники еще  те! Один из них работает в Газпроме на территории Ирана. И знал  по-русски только одну фразу «Быстро-быстро работать!». Говорит, что его  друг и начальник Михаил часто говорит эту фразу, потому он и запомнил.


On the tower met with guys from Iraqi Kurdistan. Mods yet
those! One of them works in Gazprom in Iran. And knew
in Russian only one phrase “Quickly, quickly work!”. Says his
friend and boss Michael often says this phrase, because he and
remembered.

Two of those guys

Поднялись на лифте наверх, любовались видами Тегерана.


We went up the elevator, admiring the views of Tehran.

They go into the elevator with their heads uncovered, but they come out in turbans!

Passing along the top of the tower and admiring Tehran, we saw the “No smoking” sign there. One of the guys read it out loud. Another added “No drink!”, The third added “No sleep with woman” and the fourth summed up “No sleep with men”. All this is prohibited by law in Iran. For alcohol there is also a prison. Both for use and for storage and distribution. Moreover, foreigners no indulgence, too. Immediately add that you can not also dance and play the guitar.
Several phot panoramas of Tehran.

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

View of Miland Tower — Tehran TV Tower.

On the way back from the tower to the city center, I came upon a fire station. Began to consider fire trucks and motorcycles. One of the firemen came out. I told him that I served 5 years in the fire brigade in Russia. He invited me to go to their part. In part, talked with the guard, they invited me to them for lunch. Over lunch, continued communication. 2 people there knew English more or less. Most of all they were interested — why I decided to come to Iran. He told them that the country is closed, there is no information about it, and in Russia they know little about this country. Yes, they expressed regret — in the world they think that we are a wild people, tell or write, please, about us. About how we live here. After lunch, one of them took me to the subway, left my phone number in case I had difficulties in Iran.

Fire motorcycle in the fire station of the city of Tehran.

Fire truck in the fire station of Tehran.

At lunch with firefighters in the fire department of the city of Tehran.

I was going further to the palace Golestan and that fire officer told me where I should go. Golestan Palace — the most beautiful palace in Tehran. Fotkat can only outside the territory, but inside it is impossible.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

But I prudently took a small camera with me.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

The big one hung around his neck to divert attention, and the small one managed to take a few shots (although not of the best quality). Next to the palace is the market of Tehran. According to some reports — this is the largest market in Asia. According to my feelings — it’s kapets! State in the state! It seems that the bees came to the hive! Everyone is buzzing, shouting, who in that much! Samarkand, Bukhara, Tashkent are not around. You get tired of it very quickly. And it is really huge! And it occupies ancient city buildings of several floors.

On the busy street of Tehran. Iran.

The bazaar of the city of Tehran. The largest in Asia.

On the busy street of Tehran. Iran.

In the market of the city of Tehran. Iran.

On the Tehran bazaar. Iran.

Tehran bazaar. Iran.

Persians are very sociable and very happy for tourists! Suit themselves to chat, or on the go say “Wellcome to Iran”. They are especially happy when they find out that they are from Russia. Russia is a friend to Iran. Having walked on the market, I went to the railway station. I thought for an extra hour to sit there. Feet are buzzing, 2 nights without sleep. But it was not there. Solved a quest with the subway. There is no 3rd line in any scheme. In the morning I accidentally got on the only station where there is a transition to it. Hour rode the subway in search of the station I needed. Persians, like Tajiks, love to take pictures. Themselves are asked to be photographed. Apparently, common genes affect. Some photos of Iranians who asked to be photographed:

Iranian guys

Iranian guys

As you can see in one of the photos — a sticker on the nose. These are the consequences of nose surgery. In Iran, such operations are very popular. Especially in women. Moreover, even when everything has already healed, the bandage has not yet been removed for a while, in order to show others that an operation has been performed. It shows the status of Iranian (Iranian). Because such operations cost about 2 thousand dollars and thus there is a demonstration that a person can afford such an operation.

Perhaps the favorite entertainment of the Persians is picnics in city parks. By and large, entertainment is prohibited there (alcohol, dancing, playing the guitar). And such gatherings are one of the few that remain permitted. But there are some limitations. For example, companies from girls cannot sit like this. Even the mixed companies of their boys and girls are not allowed. Girls can sit in the park only with members of their family. Guys can gather companies and have such picnics here.

Tehran residents rest in the city park.

Favorite entertainment of the Persians. Picnics in the park.

Almost all the Persians are interested in — why I decided to come to them and complain that many people think that they have a war. So it is: the first thing my parents said when they found out that I was going to Iran — “they are shooting in the same place!”. In Iran, even cigarettes do not shoot!
By the end of the day in Tehran, the brain began to fail. Too much information at once 2 nights without sleep. The word «train» in Farsi could not remember all day. But then after 3 days I could not remember this word in English, and used it in Farsi.

The train in the compartment was served and linen, and food included in the ticket price (cakes, cookies, juice, water). I did not want to eat, but I wanted to drink very much. Generally for the day I drank a lot of water, because the heat was under 50 degrees.

Inside the train compartment Tehran — Mashhad.

My fellow traveler was an engineer from Baghdad. He spoke a little English. We talked with him for 30 minutes and I fell asleep, because did not sleep with Samara itself. I slept so well that in the morning I was swollen and was a Chinese beekeeper. Affected by the amount of water I drank a day in Tehran. A box of sweets appeared almost immediately from nowhere on the train. Every passenger treated himself. Some time after I went to bed, the conductor came and started waking me up, because he brought hot tea. The desire to sleep was stronger!

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