Travel to Iran. Day 3. Kerman


We met with Iraj. With him, we agreed to meet even when I was in Russia. He earns a guide on the outskirts of Kerman. Came to his home. He introduced me to his family, we had breakfast and went to the sights.

How are children transported in Iran

That day was a great holiday, so the Ryan fortress was closed. But Iraj called the museum curator and after a while he arrived. My companion told him that I was from Russia and came to see Ryan on purpose. It is by far the largest fortress in the world. There is one more (the fortress of Bam — it is more), but at the moment is under restoration after the 2003 earthquake.

Mountain landscape on the road from Kerman to Ryan

Mountain landscape on the road from Kerman to Ryan

Mountain landscape and signpost on the road from Kerman to Ryan

Highway and mountain landscape on the road from Kerman to Ryan

Mountain landscape and desert along the road from Kerman to Ryan

The fortress was opened for me and another family of Iranians from Tehran came with us.
Iraj enthusiastically talked about the rooms that were in this fortress. For what purpose were the premises, where the delegations were received, where the children were trained, where the sports sections were.

General view of the buildings and walls of the fortress

Outside the fortress wall

Fortification walls and towers outside

Captain Kozlov against the background of the fortress walls Ryan

The premises inside the fortress

The restored part of the fortress inside

The ruins of buildings inside the fortress

Against the background of the internal buildings of the fortress Ryan

Tower of the fortress from the inside

Fortress wall inside

Ryan Fortress Buildings

General view of the fortress Ryan on the background of mountains

Some of the buildings of the fortress are in a destroyed state, some of them have been restored. It can be seen that rain and wind destroy the walls and roofs of the dwelling premises of the fortress. Because they are made of clay and straw. According to Iraj, some premises were recently finished and some 500 years ago. The fortress is really big and you can climb there for a very long time.

After walking for about an hour through the fortress, we went to the garden of Shahzde in the vicinity of the city of Makhan.

On the road from Ryan to Makhan

On the road from Ryan to Makhan

On the road from Ryan to Makhan

On the way to the garden, Iraj told me the story of the creation of this garden. Once upon a time, a long time ago, a Persian sheikh, who ruled in this area, had a son who did not want to do anything, but only to live for his own pleasure. And when the son became an adult and it was time to think about the transfer of power to him, the sheikh decided to build a garden for his son, which is not found anywhere in the district in all of Persia. Called architects from Europe, who erected such beauty. However, the father did not live to see the moment when everything was ready. He died about a month before the end of the work. And the son inherited the title and became a good, serious ruler for his people.

In the garden of Mahan

It is one of the most beautiful gardens of Iran and the entire Middle East. But he, too, was closed. However, I managed to get inside. The keepers saw my camera and asked — where did I come from? He said that from Russia. They were very happy and let me in. True, with the condition that I did not go far.

Garden gate from the inside

When I left, there was already a group of Iranians at the door who were not allowed. Because the day off. Around the garden Mahad and here, and there were families of Iranians, had picnics. More than once I was convinced of how this kind of holiday is popular in Iran. Then we went to the mausoleum in Mahad. Iraj explained that for Iranians admission is free, and for foreigners — paid. He told me to pretend to be Iranian and go free.

  • but I do not look like an Iranian?
  • you look like an Iranian from Tehran or Tabriz. Say you’re from Tehran. And even better — from Tabriz. Say only one word — Tabriz. Say no more. Neither English nor Farsi.
    As a result, on the occasion of the holiday all allowed for free.

Inside the Mahan Mausoleum

Crypt in Mahan mausoleum

Garden in Makhan Mausoleum

View of the Makhan mausoleum

After that we went to the city Shehdad. His mother-in-law lives there, and Iraj himself comes from this city. We drove through the mountains. Very reminded Tajikistan. This city is very hot, because It is located 50 km from the Callut desert — the hottest place on Earth.

Highway and mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Mountain landscape on the road to Shahdad city

Motorcyclists hold hands on the highway on the road to Shahdad city

In his house, the mother-in-law ate fresh dates from palm trees, drank tea, he showed me his school, an underground giant reservoir that used to supply the entire city with water, and now it’s empty. Then we went to Callut.

In the garden of date palms

Date palm

For the first time in my life I ate dates right from the palm

Along the way, Iraj showed underground ropes — a system of canals that supply the surrounding villages with water. They have a lot of exits to the outside, so that air flows there for the workers.

Inside the underground ropes

After that, we went to another ancient fortress, but in which people lived 25 years ago.

General view of the fortress from one of the towers

Inside the fortress

Residential, recently inhabited premises of the fortress

Residential, recently inhabited premises of the fortress

General view of the village among date palms.

And finally, actually, Callut! As it approached, the air grew hotter, all you had to do was stick your hand out of the car — it was blown by a hot stream of air. In the desert is absolutely Martian landscape. We took in advance dinner food and plenty of water. 2 thermos + 2 liters + another canister. Why so much — I realized on the spot. Strong heat + wind dehydrate the body instantly. Every 5-10 minutes I drank a glass of cold water. Although that day was not the hottest. +50. The record, which was set in this desert +71 degrees. The high mountain desert is located at an altitude of 3500 m above sea level. According to some expedition scientists, even bacteria do not live in this desert because of the harsh climate. If, for example, you leave an apple in it, then it does not rot, but simply dries.

Martian desert landscape Callut

Martian desert landscape Callut

Martian desert landscape Callut

Martian desert landscape Callut

Beginning of sunset in the Callut desert

In the Kallut desert at sunset

In the Kallut desert at sunset

In the Kallut desert at sunset

In the Kallut desert at sunset

Martian desert landscape Callut

Martian desert landscape Callut

Against the backdrop of the setting sun in the desert Callut

At sunset in the Kallut desert

At sunset in the Kallut desert

Somewhere on the red planet

Somewhere on the red planet

Somewhere on the red planet

Somewhere on the red planet

That white dot is me

So here you are, Mars

Towards sunset, they ate and sat down to watch the sunset.

Peugeot rover and its pilot Iraj before dinner at sunset.

Peugeot rover and its pilot Iraj before dinner at sunset.

We were joined by a guy + girl from Germany. Then another guy from Spain, then another guy from Italy. Began to get acquainted. Iraj said I am from Russia and Putin’s friend. Europeans theatrically frightened. I told them that I was not Putin’s closest friend so that they wouldn’t be too scared. And, pointing to the Germans, Iraj said that they are Hitler’s friends! What greatly embarrassed the representatives of the Aryan race. «No, no! No Hitler! Angela Merkel!» — our German acquaintances began to object. But Iraj was adamant: «No! Hitler!» As a result, we talked with the whole friendly company for about an hour.

Friends of Hitler, a friend of Putin and a friend of Franco

The Italian has not yet approached, and the Russian — for the camera

And it seemed that there were no borders in the world, no sanctions, no wars, no politics, no superiority of one nation over another. We sat there — six ordinary guys: two Germans, an Italian, a Spaniard, a Persian and a Russian, and sang Kalinka-Malinka.

Callut Desert at Sunset

The sun sets in the Callut desert

The sun sets in the Callut desert

The sun sets in the Callut desert

Callut Desert at Sunset

If not for the lack of a spacesuit — would feel like on Mars

As a result, after sunset, we went with Iraj to Kerman. Already cold air was blowing from the mountains. Beauty! During the day we drove 500 km. And all day I spoke with him in English. My brain rested. No, of course, he absorbed information, defragmented, zip-oval. But I was relieved of my duties to solve charades in Farsi and play pantomime with the Persians.
So I met that day in the desert, driving along it in a bus from Mashhad to Kerman — watched the sunrise, and spent the day in the desert too, watching the sunset.
At a desert picnic, they ate delicious chicken stew, which actually turned out to be some kind of fish from the Persian Gulf.
In the evening after dinner, as promised, he showed tourist blogs with his photos and stories about his services to Iraj. Iraj was very surprised at how popular he was on the Internet. He was even inspired and began to generate ideas for expanding his business. I decided to carry tourists not only around Kerman, but throughout Iran. + Started to maintain a customer base. I was number one in it. I suggested that he collect links to travel blogs and post on his website as reviews. As promised to him — I cite his contacts in the blog, as advertising. Well, maybe some of my readers will find the information about Iraj and his services useful. I was pleased. Tour Guide Iraj Iraj Rahmany. Tel: 09133417865; e-mail: iraj_ry@yahoo.com.

Ответ был верным – проблемы Шираза полицейских Йезда не волнуют. Отдали паспорт и пожелали всего хорошего. С афганцем разбирались отдельно, но в итоге через 15 минут тоже отпустили. В Йезде у таксиста я узнал, что на этом посту ловят оружие, наркотики и нелегалов (в основном афганцев и пакистанцев). Такой же пост мы проезжали накануне с Ираджем в Кермане, но нас там не проверяли.

Putting to bed, I asked Iraj how men in Iran are supposed to sleep? In clothes or not? Men in Iran sleep in their pajamas. Wore trousers and a T-shirt and went to bed on Persian rugs. The house of Iraj is very beautiful. Like a Persian palace. I told this in the morning to his wife in Farsi while she was preparing breakfast for me. My printouts from the phrasebook came in handy.
In the morning, breakfast was served and Iraj took me to the bus station, where, without incident, he bought a ticket for the nearest bus to the city of Yazd. It was 1.5 hours before him. Walked around the terminal. Suddenly a policeman approached me and asked me where I came from in a mixture of English and Farsi. I decided that it was a document check, but it turned out to be a common curiosity and a desire to communicate with a foreigner. When he learned that I was from Russia — he began animatedly repeating «Frend! Frend!», Reinforcing words with linked little fingers in his hands. 5 minutes talked and he went to his post. It turned out he ran a decent distance. I returned to the waiting room. There the guy sat down with me. In English, he knew only a few words, but really wanted to talk. How could — talked about 20 minutes. He was interested in — why did I come to Iran and is it good to be a free traveler? This time the bus was not a VIP, but an ordinary one. 280 r for 500 km. At the entrance to Yazd there was a check point. All passengers were given their belongings and opened all the curtains on the bus. The police entered with machine guns. They asked for documents from me and from one Afghan. Let’s go deal with us in the booth. They checked my visa, asked where I would stay in Yazd. To which I replied that I was going to Shiraz in the evening.


The answer was true — the problems of Shiraz police Yazd do not care. Gave a passport and wished all the best. They dealt with the Afghani separately, but in the end, after 15 minutes, they also released him. In Yazd, I learned from a taxi driver that they were taking weapons, drugs, and illegal immigrants (mostly Afghans and Pakistanis) in this post. We passed the same post the day before with Iraj in Kerman, but we were not checked there.

Actually, Iraj

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