Travel to Iran. Day 2. Mashhad

The main attraction of Mashhad is the mausoleum of Imam Reza. Every Muslim in life must make a hajj to Mecca. This is the first Muslim shrine. In second place is the tomb of Prophet Mohammed in Medina (in Iraq, but now it is destroyed, as the engineer from Baghdad told me), and then comes the tomb of Imam Reza. There are always a lot of pilgrim tourists in the city. From the station, they go straight to the mausoleum with their suitcases.

Pilgrims arriving in Mashhad

In the building of the railway station of the city of Mashhad

I went on foot to walk around the city. On the way, I saw such sports equipment on the streets. Then I saw these in almost every city.

Sports simulators on the streets of the city of Mashhad in Iran.

Sports simulators on the streets of the city of Mashhad in Iran.

Sports simulators on the streets of the city of Mashhad in Iran.


As I approached him, the flow of my companions increased.

The stream of pilgrims in the mausoleum of Imam Reza

Before the mausoleum, people relax — they are lying on lawns, having picnics.

Before entering the mausoleum of Imam Reza

People rest on the lawns in front of Imam Reza’s mausoleum.

Shiite flags in front of the mausoleum

At the entrance, things passed into the storage chamber and went inside. It turned out that this is a complex. Walking on it, followed by streams of people. Where most — there I am. You can not take a picture inside, because things are surrendered to the camera, but people are taking pictures on their phones. Inside the complex is more beautiful than the outside. And having gone down to one of the halls, I was simply stunned by such beauty. Everywhere prayer rooms. I decided also to pofot on the phone. Quality is not ice, but better than nothing.

The prayer room in the mausoleum of Imam Reza

The ceiling in one of the rooms in the mausoleum of Imam Reza

Muslims who can not to Mecca — I recommend to Mashhad. The rest — I recommend to come to see this beauty. Then I walked just by the call of my heart.

One of the areas of the mausoleum, covered with Persian carpets

One of the mausoleum squares, covered with Persian rugs, and two women on them

This is not a complex, this is a whole city! With their own minibuses. Seeing the most beautiful golden gate — he went to them.

The main entrance to the mausoleum of Imam Reza


By the way the Muslims touched the doors, walls and kissed them, I realized that there was something important on the right path and ahead.

Men near the wall of the room in which the body of Imam Reza rests

Passing with the flow of 3-4 rooms, I saw a light version of the hajj. The flow intensified, the crush began. In the next room I was just drawn into the stream. There was the grave of Imam Reza. What was going on here !!! Adults carry children on their shoulders, they yell, some adults themselves also cry when they see the grave, shout, hang themselves on it, throw their things upstairs.

Pilgrims near the entrance to the room with the body of Imam Reza

Pilgrims near the coffin with the body of Imam Reza

Behind a glass partition of the woman in the same stream. Burst out of the stream, stood in the corner to watch. Everyone strives to reach her, and those that have reached, do not let go. Particularly fanatical hang on it, cry, scream. Then I understood what religious fanaticism is. And it became clear how in each hajj in Mecca several dozens of people were killed in crush. Here, though the scale is not the same, but Muslims from all over the world come here too. Some, shouting, fall into a trance, as in the Ivolginsky Datsan near Ulan-Ude, the monks, reading the mantra, fall into a trance. Impressive! True, I had to plunge into this stream to get out. There was no way back — it was unreal to go against the stream. Gathering his courage, he stepped into this human maelstrom. The stream carried me to the shrine. I decided that, not understanding the significance of this action, I didn’t need it, and, having made an effort, I went into another room, from where I had already gone outside.

The entrance to one of the buildings of the Imam Rez mausoleum

On one of the squares of the mausoleum

The mausoleum is open around the clock, it is decorated with lighting. At night, probably very beautiful. In some places there are points with water where you can quench your thirst. Above the cranes inscription on Farsi. Apparently, «Drink water in memory of all Muslims who died for the faith.» Such an inscription in English was at the faucet in the Golestan Palace in Tehran.

The same points with drinking water are throughout the city and help out a lot. Somewhere there are no mugs, somewhere there is.

Sources of drinking water in the cities of Iran

The main souvenir from Mashhad is saffron. But he is here for the price of heroin per gram. About 300 rubles per gram. In my opinion, this is the most expensive seasoning in the world, because it is harvested by hand and 3 pistils from a flower.

Views of the city of Mashhad

The central street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Car traffic on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Hotel on the main street of the city of Mashhad

Residents of the city on the main street

Buying a bus ticket to Kerman was also a little adventure. From one box office sent to another. Nobody spoke English. He spoke them in Farsi «bilit Kerman». Until I ended up on the 2nd floor in some distant office, where I spent the next half hour. Nobody knew English there either. Communicated first with gestures, then through google. Reached a ticket. They asked for a name. He said. On the name — gave a passport. Opened, began to laugh. Apparently, above the last name. In the end, they called me Denis Rus. So they wrote out a ticket to this name. To the bus was about 5 hours. Especially you do not clear up, especially since the terminal (as bus stations are called in Iran) is located on the outskirts of the city. I decided to go to the park. Found a lonely sitting Persian, asked what you can get to the point on the map, which I pointed out to him. When he found out that I was from Russia, I was very animated. He remembered his entire vocabulary of English, said that Russia and Iran are the most loyal friends against America. The guy was an army officer. As a result, he took me to the parking lot, explaining where to go, what is the name of the stop. Saying goodbye, he firmly shook his hand and strove to embrace. Seeing my embarrassment, he said that in Iran, good friends say goodbye, they touch cheeks. So did. But lucky with a taxi. I decided to go to Savary. Stopped the first available to ask. The driver, having learned that I had transplanted a guy from the front seat back from Russia, invited me to sit in front, drove to the park gate, refused to take money, invited me to eat shish kebab at home. The first thing I did in the park was to climb Sangi Mountain — to admire the views of Mashhad. Very reminded of the city of Osh and the mountain Suleiman Tooo.

Panoramic views of the city of Mashhad from a height:

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

Mount Sangi and view of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

View of the city of Mashhad from a height

Persian girls on top of Mount Sangi

One of the favorite types of recreation in Iran — picnics in the parks. And maybe this is the only thing that is allowed.

Residents of the city of Mashhad rest in the park

Еще спортивные тренажеры:

Both adults and children are welcome to exercise machines.

Children are engaged in simulators in the park of the city of Mashhad

The man is engaged in simulators in the park of the city of Mashhad

All public toilets in Iran are free. From Tehran airport you can make free calls around the city. At all stations, airports and terminals — free sockets in the waiting rooms.

In the waiting room of the bus station of the city of Mashhad. Portraits of warriors who died in the war with Iraq.

VIP bus in Iran. For the price is not much different from the usual, but noticeably nicer

In the bus to Kerman distributed food to passengers. 2 biscuit bars and juice. And then I remembered that I had not eaten all day. In fact, I haven’t eaten since lunch at the fire station, i.e. already more than a day. During one of the night stops on the street, a rather colorful uncle (Karabas-barabas) approached me and tried hard to speak Farsi.

Karabas — Barabas

Seeing my misunderstanding and perseverance of the interlocutor, one of our bus passengers volunteered to be a translator. He knew a little English. It turned out the translator is an Afghan. At the next stop in the morning talk to him a little.

Night stop on the way to Kerman

Night stop on the way to Kerman

Night stop on the way to Kerman

The same guy is an Afghan

Sunrise met in the desert. The sun rose in 2 minutes. Handsomely.

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

Sunrise in the desert

A little later, another passenger of ours got me. He knew little English language, but really wanted to talk. He studies at the faculty of oil, wants to go to Canada. He asked me how I feel about the clothes of the Iranians and how I like their women. He likes Russian women. And when I said that women wear open clothes, he said he wants to go to Russia.

On the way to Kerman

On the way to Kerman

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Landscape on the road from Mashhad to Kerman. Mountains and desert

Like, ask questions in the comments, share your impressions of the read.

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