Travel to Iran. Day 1. Road to Iran. Iran. Tehran

Departure to
Tehran was from Moscow with a transfer in Kiev. Moscow tickets for the train
It was not, therefore, it was decided to go to Moscow by bus. Bus
was supposed to arrive at the Kazan station of Moscow at 11 o’clock in the day
departure. True, already from Samara, he left with an hour late. Next were
frequent parking at the request of workers (eat, smoke, go to
restroom). As a result, the delay was not only not reduced, but also
increased. As a result, at 11 o’clock we were just still in Ryazan. Where and
We stopped at the next parking for 40 minutes. The driver said that on
Kazan station, we will arrive in 3 hours. In the course of driving in Moscow
he will not be able to land the first metro station. This means that before
Paveletskaya I get to half past three, and at the airport — all the hours
to 5. Whereas at 5 o’clock I already have a flight to Kiev. Continue
movement with this team of hungry smokers who always want to go to the toilet —
not an option. My soul could not stand it, I took my backpack and waved my hand.
He waved his hand and stopped the cargo Gazelle. Having driven 1-2 km, I saw a turn
on the house-museum of Sergei Yesenin. It turns out we were in the homeland of the great
Russian poet. I knew that he was from Ryazan province, but that the village
Konstantinovo — here it is — did not know. I found it symbolic, because
immediately remembered «Persian motifs» Yesenin. Later they were useful to me. On a gazelle I drove to the town Bronnitsy .
It is 30 km to Moscow. There he took a bus ticket to Moscow (metro
Vyhino). I looked at the bus station queue for boarding the bus.
Culture-multur! When the bus approached — the people rushed in a heap. But not,
everything is in order — the same trash, like me. Even worse, because swearing
on top of each other when landing. In Vykhino I managed to take the subway
then similarly on the ring line and at 13:55 was already on Paveletsky
train station. Express to Domodedovo leaves at 14:00. Having bought a ticket
rushed with a few more of these same poor fellows in the direction of the 7th path.
They jumped just before the departure. As a result, the airport had
when I was already checking in for my flight. But that’s all
began. The trouble came from not having waited ( «from the lair of the serpent, from the city Kiev « (c). They did not expect from Kiev, and she came from there). They registered for the flight, but they do not give away the landing Kiev-Tehran.

New internal rules
Airlines «International lines of Ukraine.» For them, Iran needs
present a visa. Yes, and passengers departing to other countries, checked
employee, checked with her book and … missed. Me the same
asked to present an official invitation to the country, or a visa.
I told them that I will receive a visa upon arrival at the airport, but for now I have
there is only a promotional code issued by the consulate. My listing of their code
not satisfied, they gathered the whole meeting, began to call in Kiev — in
head office of the company. In the end, after half an hour missed with
an apology.

The aircraft of the Ukrainian International Airline at Domodedovo Airport

Letak (ukr.)

On an international plane
Ukrainian Airlines during the flight to Kiev food and drinks on board
SELLED. Even water. The first time I saw this. Because fly to Tehran
the same airline had to, then decided to have a snack. Next to me
sat passenger — Odessa. We talked with him only when landing and
it turned out that he was from Samara — from the 15th mkrn. In Samara, he was not
already 25 years old. In the international terminal of Kiev, walking next to me 2
women and spoke Ukrainian. But the word «plane» in this context
reanulo rumor. With a clear Maskal accent, he told them “shanovni panove,
if you crush with a non-inflatable mow, grind, Budlask to the end. Neither
aircraft. Letak! ” Laughed.

At the Borispol airport in Kiev. Welcome or unauthorized access is prohibited

At the Kiev airport
invitations to land for the republics of the former USSR in Ukrainian and
Russian (Tbilisi, Baku, Yerevan, Almaty, Chisinau, even Lviv!).
And only Vilnius — in Ukrainian and English. Apparently fear
outrages of sprats «Niiinaaaaad raaazgavaarivat paaaruskski with us!»
In Domodedovo, in English and in the language of the host country.
In fairness, I note that the plane to Tehran fully
fed hot. Apparently, this is only on the Kiev-Moscow route.
famine, in retaliation))
Flew to Tehran. Flew over the Donbas, over the Black Sea, over the Caucasus.

Upon arrival in Tehran, the women began wearing shawls while still on the plane. One girl did not dress and got on the bus to the terminal without a headscarf. Passengers looked at her with reproach, showed a finger. In the end, she threw it, but did not tie. She was told to tie a scarf. It is strange that in the plane they sat in the form in which Allah forbids them. Haram! Although, on a plane to Allah, something is even closer.

Schedule of flights at the airport Imam Khomeini. Tehran

Arrived at 2 am.
I got a visa at the airport. Strange, but a visa was issued for a period of 15 days, and
not for 8. At the airport, they exchanged the first $ 50 for Iranian rials. WITH
money there perfect zamorochki. In addition to the standard for any country
monetary units (rubles and pennies, dollars and cents), Iran has
third unit of measurement. Fogs These are 10 rials. Moreover, it is
informal unit, but the calculations are usually in the mists. Ie, on
a banknote of 100 thousand rials, we close one zero and get 10 thousand
fogs. The first 2 days in my head was porridge with prices and calculations, until
determined for himself a constant that a thousand fogs are 20 rubles. BUT
initially transferred to dollars, from dollars to rubles, to ask the price.
Transport. In Iran, from public transportation are common
buses, savars and darmases. The bus is understandable. Savary is
collective taxi. Just stop the car (any, even without
signs of belonging to a taxi) and ask — Savary or not? If a
Yes, it travels around the city and carries its passengers, who can
sit down on the go. It costs more than a bus, but is cheaper than darmas.
Darmas is a classic taxi. You sit down alone, rent the whole car and
no one else gets hooked up, only you are driven. From airport to
the city rode on darmas for the price of savary. The distance there is 60 km. Cost
at the rate of $ 20 after the auction. But this was my first test. how
bargain without knowing Farsi? Showed the taxi driver how much I have in
the availability of money and he counted out how much he needed for the passage. I, in my
turn, diminished from this amount a little more. He threw, I — diminished.
So they shifted the banknotes, as in a card deck. Until we
noticed a guy who speaks english. It was a salvation. I explained
to him that he is ready to pay no more than a certain amount and he is already on
Farsi interpreted the taxi driver. In the end, I went with him to the Azadi tower,
which is a symbol of Tehran. Start acquaintance with the country decided
It was from the capital. A familiarity with the capital — with the symbol of the city. Arrived
about there at about half past four o’clock.

Azadi Tower — a symbol of the city of Tehran

Then I went for a walk through the night Tehran. The annoying taxi drivers offered to take me wherever needed, but I decided to walk around the city at night, enjoy the silence, the warm Persian night, the moon, that “a little yellower and from the other side” (c) Yesenin. He discarded taxi drivers with the magic word «majoni». What in Farsi means free. I learned the most popular and necessary phrases in Farsi on an airplane and + with me I had printouts from a phrase book. One of the taxi drivers began to bargain with me in English. As a result, 12 thousand fogs converged on 5. For this amount, I drove to another main square of the city — Imam Khomeini Square. There is a lot of things in Iran called Khomeini. It’s like Lenin in the USSR at one time. In Azerbaijan today Heydar Aliyev will also be honored. From Khomeni Square I went for a walk on the pedestrian part of the city, to watch the big city wake up.

Imam Khomeini Square in Tehran at night

Tehran is a city of contrasts. In the very center of the city on the square of Imam Khomeini there is such a house.

House in Imam Khomeini Square at night

Для себя решил, что часов в 6 утра надо будет выдвигаться в сторону ЖД-вокзала, т.к. решил, что в Мешхад  поеду поездом. Чтобы попробовать все виды транспорта в Иране. А билеты  на ночные поезда в Иране раскупают, как горячие пирожки, поэтому надо  заранее озаботиться. Пока же гулял по одной из улиц пешеходной зоны  столицы Ирана. Время было еще ночное, поэтому народ еще мирно спал:

Спящие под открытым небом жители Тегерана

For myself, I decided that at 6 am I would have to move towards the railway station, because I decided that I would go to Mashhad by train. To try all modes of transport in Iran. And the tickets for night trains in Iran are being bought up like hot cakes, so you have to attend to it in advance. In the meantime, walking along one of the streets in the pedestrian zone of the capital of Iran. The time was still night, so the people were still sleeping peacefully:

Clean, shaven, well-dressed. Probably far from home.

I walked through the empty pedestrian streets of Tehran:

Mosque on one of the streets of Tehran

Tehran deserted street at night

I decided to buy a drink in the opening stall. As it turned out, the salesman (young guy) teaches Russian and I saw a potential interlocutor with whom I could practice Russian. We talked with him, bought lemonade from him, showed postcards with the image of Samara, presented one of them as a souvenir, and went on — towards Azadi Square, where I saw beautifully lit public transport stops. But I did not have time to take a picture because while walking before them — the sun was already beginning to rise and the artificial lighting was turned off. I went down to the subway, where the vendors were asked the direction to the railway station. Under the ground was a small trading town with many exits. Following in the direction indicated to me, I got to the metro station, where, in turn, the metro workers indicated to me a girl at the ticket office who knew English. She told me that I need to get to Rohahan station. Taking the ticket and going to the scheme, I realized that I need to go to the 3rd line and there will be the station I need. So did.

In the Tehran metro

В Иране для женщин не только отдельные вагоны в метро, но и сидения для ожидания поезда:

In Iran, for women, not only separate cars in the subway, but also seats for waiting the train: Places for women only

В итоге вышел аккурат к вокзалу. Не зная фарси в Иране тяжело. Сим-карту  купил – молодец! Билет на поезд смог купить – просто умница! Мало того,  там еще и свои правила. Например, в автобусах женщины заходят строго в  заднюю дверь, мужчины – строго в переднюю и внутри автобуса задняя  половина – для женщин, передняя – для мужчин и в салоне четкое  разделение. В метро первый и последний вагоны  — строго для женщин,  остальные – смешанные, но, как правило, в остальных исключительно  мужчины. Так же и на платформе, ожидая поезд, места для сидения only for  women. Также свои правила в Иране и при покупке билетов.

Railway station building in Tehran

As a result, went right to the station. Not knowing Farsi in Iran is hard. I bought a sim card — well done! Train ticket could buy — just clever! Moreover, there are also their own rules. For example, in buses, women enter strictly in the back door, men — strictly in the front and inside the bus, the back half is for women, the front — for men and in the cabin is a clear separation. In the metro, the first and last cars are strictly for women, the rest are mixed, but, as a rule, the rest are exclusively men. Likewise, on the platform, waiting for the train, seats only for women. Also its rules in Iran and when buying tickets.

Как происходит покупка ЖД-билетов – я так и не понял, а с междугородними  автобусами разобрался, хоть и не сразу. Покупая ЖД-билет,  девушка-кассир, разглядев во мне иностранца, взяла у меня паспорт и  сказала, что все сделает сама и потом позовет меня. Мне же оставалось  сидеть, ждать и наблюдать за развернувшимся безумием. Кассы огорожены  забором, в проеме которого охранник. Пускает он по каким-то своим  правилам. И счастливчик, попавший к кассе, покупает либо пачку билетов,  либо один. Остальные же почему-то мечутся, кричат и трясут какими-то  бумажками. Мне все это напомнило торговлю на бирже.

Waiting for the fence when buying tickets to Tehran station

How does the purchase of railway tickets occur? I did not understand, and I figured out intercity buses, though not immediately. When buying a railway ticket, the cashier girl, having seen the foreigner in me, took my passport and said that she would do everything herself and then call me. I just had to sit, wait and watch the madness unfolded. The ticket office is fenced, in the opening of which is a guard. He lets out according to his own rules. And the lucky one who gets to the box office buys either a pack of tickets or one. The rest for some reason, rushing, screaming and shaking some pieces of paper. All this reminded me of trading on the stock exchange.

After waiting a little over an hour, I became nervous. And I wanted my passport back, and I didn’t want to spend time in the waiting room, because there was so much interesting and exciting ahead. And here one local guy addressed me. His name was Khalil. He was very happy to hear that I was from Russia. He was already on the other side of the fence. Among the lucky ones. He asked where I need a ticket. I told him that that girl promised me to arrange everything. As a result, I climbed over that fence and found myself in happy territory near the cash registers. Khalil asked her if the ticket was ready.

And they gave me a ticket and a passport. Explained where and what is written on the ticket. Because everything was written in Farsi. Even numbers (date and time of departure).

Train ticket in iran

Me and Khalil against the background of the Koran at the station in Tehran

With the date, by the way, a separate issue in Iran. Now they have 1394y in the yard. When I was there, they had the month of May in the yard. Approximately 17th number. We also, remember, was the 9th of August 2015. Brain rupture! Khalil knows English well, but, like many Iranians, there is no place to practice it. Therefore, they are very happy to those rare tourists who visit their country. He asked where I was going now in Tehran and in general what my plans are in Iran. When he learned that I was going to the TV tower, I began to ring up my acquaintances to ask me how I could get to her more conveniently and cheaper, I also asked passers-by on the street. As a result, we determined what was needed at the stop, which was on the other side of the street. He took my hand and led me across the road. It was unusual. But in Iran there is nothing wrong with people of the same sex holding hands. This is a manifestation of friendship. But to touch the opposite sex can not. A man and a woman, who hold hands in a public place, are even awaiting arrest and administrative punishment. Crossing the road, there was another reason why he took my hand. There are no traffic rules in Tehran. Absent, starting from the word «absolutely.» Therefore, where he managed — there he ran over. Drivers do not even think to slow down, and pedestrians wander where they want. Motorcyclists ride on sidewalks — it is in the order of things. Especially in Tehran, where the traffic is very big! (The population of the city with the suburbs — about 15 million). As a result, Khalil put me on the bus, told the driver to drop me off at the designated stop. + we have changed phone numbers with it. He said that if I have difficulties in Iran, I can call him and he will help me. And I must pay tribute — he called me every day and found out where I was and if everything was fine with me. After the bus, I moved to Savary, because I forgot the name of the next bus, which I had to transfer to. Two girls and a guy were already sitting in the savary. Here, too, has its own rules. First, a woman should sit in the back seat (so as not to sit in an empty car next to the driver). Then as far as filling the cabin, if a man sits down, he should sit in the front seat so that the woman sits alone in the back seat. If a man sits next, then the one who sits in the front seat should move back and the girl should go forward. That she did not sit in close proximity with a man in the back, and would sit alone in the front. And men sit back together. In general, the whole puzzle. The exception is when a woman is with her husband or one of her relatives (father, brother). But some young couples use a taxi to be together without the eyes of others and just sit together in the back seat, hold hands or even embrace. I had no choice — I sat back, where the girl and the guy were already sitting. After a while they all came out, the girl wished me a good day in English. And I was left with a taxi driver together. He suggested that I transfer to the front seat. I did not want to change with a backpack and therefore I stayed behind. They arrived at the tower.

Tehran City TV Tower

На башне познакомился с ребятами из Иракского Курдистана. Модники еще  те! Один из них работает в Газпроме на территории Ирана. И знал  по-русски только одну фразу «Быстро-быстро работать!». Говорит, что его  друг и начальник Михаил часто говорит эту фразу, потому он и запомнил.

On the tower met with guys from Iraqi Kurdistan. Mods yet
those! One of them works in Gazprom in Iran. And knew
in Russian only one phrase “Quickly, quickly work!”. Says his
friend and boss Michael often says this phrase, because he and

Two of those guys

Поднялись на лифте наверх, любовались видами Тегерана.

We went up the elevator, admiring the views of Tehran.

They go into the elevator with their heads uncovered, but they come out in turbans!

Passing along the top of the tower and admiring Tehran, we saw the “No smoking” sign there. One of the guys read it out loud. Another added “No drink!”, The third added “No sleep with woman” and the fourth summed up “No sleep with men”. All this is prohibited by law in Iran. For alcohol there is also a prison. Both for use and for storage and distribution. Moreover, foreigners no indulgence, too. Immediately add that you can not also dance and play the guitar.
Several phot panoramas of Tehran.

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

Panorama of the city of Tehran. Iran

View of Miland Tower — Tehran TV Tower.

On the way back from the tower to the city center, I came upon a fire station. Began to consider fire trucks and motorcycles. One of the firemen came out. I told him that I served 5 years in the fire brigade in Russia. He invited me to go to their part. In part, talked with the guard, they invited me to them for lunch. Over lunch, continued communication. 2 people there knew English more or less. Most of all they were interested — why I decided to come to Iran. He told them that the country is closed, there is no information about it, and in Russia they know little about this country. Yes, they expressed regret — in the world they think that we are a wild people, tell or write, please, about us. About how we live here. After lunch, one of them took me to the subway, left my phone number in case I had difficulties in Iran.

Fire motorcycle in the fire station of the city of Tehran.

Fire truck in the fire station of Tehran.

At lunch with firefighters in the fire department of the city of Tehran.

I was going further to the palace Golestan and that fire officer told me where I should go. Golestan Palace — the most beautiful palace in Tehran. Fotkat can only outside the territory, but inside it is impossible.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

View of the Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

But I prudently took a small camera with me.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

Persian luxury inside Golestan Palace. Tehran. Iran.

The big one hung around his neck to divert attention, and the small one managed to take a few shots (although not of the best quality). Next to the palace is the market of Tehran. According to some reports — this is the largest market in Asia. According to my feelings — it’s kapets! State in the state! It seems that the bees came to the hive! Everyone is buzzing, shouting, who in that much! Samarkand, Bukhara, Tashkent are not around. You get tired of it very quickly. And it is really huge! And it occupies ancient city buildings of several floors.

On the busy street of Tehran. Iran.

The bazaar of the city of Tehran. The largest in Asia.

On the busy street of Tehran. Iran.

In the market of the city of Tehran. Iran.

On the Tehran bazaar. Iran.

Tehran bazaar. Iran.

Persians are very sociable and very happy for tourists! Suit themselves to chat, or on the go say “Wellcome to Iran”. They are especially happy when they find out that they are from Russia. Russia is a friend to Iran. Having walked on the market, I went to the railway station. I thought for an extra hour to sit there. Feet are buzzing, 2 nights without sleep. But it was not there. Solved a quest with the subway. There is no 3rd line in any scheme. In the morning I accidentally got on the only station where there is a transition to it. Hour rode the subway in search of the station I needed. Persians, like Tajiks, love to take pictures. Themselves are asked to be photographed. Apparently, common genes affect. Some photos of Iranians who asked to be photographed:

Iranian guys

Iranian guys

As you can see in one of the photos — a sticker on the nose. These are the consequences of nose surgery. In Iran, such operations are very popular. Especially in women. Moreover, even when everything has already healed, the bandage has not yet been removed for a while, in order to show others that an operation has been performed. It shows the status of Iranian (Iranian). Because such operations cost about 2 thousand dollars and thus there is a demonstration that a person can afford such an operation.

Perhaps the favorite entertainment of the Persians is picnics in city parks. By and large, entertainment is prohibited there (alcohol, dancing, playing the guitar). And such gatherings are one of the few that remain permitted. But there are some limitations. For example, companies from girls cannot sit like this. Even the mixed companies of their boys and girls are not allowed. Girls can sit in the park only with members of their family. Guys can gather companies and have such picnics here.

Tehran residents rest in the city park.

Favorite entertainment of the Persians. Picnics in the park.

Almost all the Persians are interested in — why I decided to come to them and complain that many people think that they have a war. So it is: the first thing my parents said when they found out that I was going to Iran — “they are shooting in the same place!”. In Iran, even cigarettes do not shoot!
By the end of the day in Tehran, the brain began to fail. Too much information at once 2 nights without sleep. The word «train» in Farsi could not remember all day. But then after 3 days I could not remember this word in English, and used it in Farsi.

The train in the compartment was served and linen, and food included in the ticket price (cakes, cookies, juice, water). I did not want to eat, but I wanted to drink very much. Generally for the day I drank a lot of water, because the heat was under 50 degrees.

Inside the train compartment Tehran — Mashhad.

My fellow traveler was an engineer from Baghdad. He spoke a little English. We talked with him for 30 minutes and I fell asleep, because did not sleep with Samara itself. I slept so well that in the morning I was swollen and was a Chinese beekeeper. Affected by the amount of water I drank a day in Tehran. A box of sweets appeared almost immediately from nowhere on the train. Every passenger treated himself. Some time after I went to bed, the conductor came and started waking me up, because he brought hot tea. The desire to sleep was stronger!

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